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Friday, July 31, 2015

Corrections for Patterns in Colorful Crochet Lace

I have listed and will continue listing any errors we find in Colorful Ctochet Lace, so please be patient with me and please let me know if you think you've found an error not listed here as you are making a project! But first I need to say something about errors in a crochet book. See errors and corrections toward bottom of page our toy can go to three publishers website to see the actual pages from the book that have been corrected.
Interweave Errata pages for Colourful Crochet Lace: http://www.crochetme.com/errata/book-errata/colorful-crochet-lace-all-errata


Information to Readers about Errors in Pattern Books

As a designer and author, the thrill of having a book released cannot be described in words, especially when people love it and the book is getting 5 star reviews. But one of the worst things we experience is finding out about an error in a pattern. The only consolation we have is that now we have the Internet so anyone in the world can look up the pattern on the author/designer's website, blog or on Ravelry.

I want you all to understand how the errors can happen and it can't be helped. No matter how perfect you think your manuscript is when sending it off to the publishder to be seen by the tech editor, something is going to end up being changed. I want everyone to know that I, aa designer, have every single project tested by a pattern tester, and when they report back to me that they made the project with no problems or if they have pointed out something they didn't understand and it has been corrected by me, the designer, I feel 100% confident there are no errors.
But at the same time, I have to face reality. Even though I know my patterns have been tested and cleared for errors, worded the way I know can be understood and
 know the tech editor will probably condense the pattern some for the sake of making more room in the book, it still makes me very nervous. When the process happens, you just have to trust the tech editor and trust the publisher for hiring the best tech editors in the business. That's the only way I can sleep at night!

Knowing all this and having told you what the process is, there are bound to be mistakes because of human error. The patterns not only go through me, the editor, and the tech editor, but it goes through proof readers as well. Sometimes when the tech editor is correcting any math (grading the sizes), condensing the pattern, or rearranging the wording, things get left off or rearranged because of copying and pasting. Then the patterns are all sent back to us as the designer to check for any errors the tech editor may have made. Seems simple enough, right?
But it's not that simple. I try to read every single word of the patterns again to check for errors, but it is humanly impossible to catch every single error or thing that was changed. Actually, the only way I could be sure to catch any errors would be to start the project over, and make it again myself, or have a pattern tester make it again! There's no time to do this, because of deadlines, just hoping and praying we have caught everything. 

When the book is released and as people are making patterns, you may get comments about things that are minor, such as a comma missing, a stitch count missing, or occasionally the number of sts that weren't added for a larger size, but when someone finds a major error that would cause someone to give up on the pattern, or that could give the designer a bad reputation, this is devestating! I'm thankful that most publishers now include a stitch pattern diagram making it easier to understand, and as happy as it makes me that inexperienced crocheters are trying the patterns, sometimes they just don't understand because of inexperience. I try to be patient and help them understand.

But like I said, thank goodness for the Internet and my blog! Thanks for allowing me to explain this because readers automatically think the errors are the fault of the designer and that's not always the case. We are meticulous about writing our patterns correctly and hiring pattern testers. I'm not saying we don't make mistakes. As humans we all do.

Some good advice - I recommend that you do not read ahead in the pattern! It can be way too confusing but when you actually start crocheting and doing it step by step it will make more sense. I have been crocheting for many years and never read ahead anymore, because it can confuse an experienced crocheter too!

 Corrections on the Monique Hooded Jacket

Page 18 - Under Sleeve Section
You need to end with a Row 3 of pattern on all sizes, as stated in the book (not Row 5 as in the first correction)
1st Section - Sizes S/M and 2X only is correct in the book, but we are correcting the next 2 sections to read as follows.

2nd Section - Size 1X only
Row 1 (Row 5 of patt): With RS facing, skip first 6 tr-shells (18" [45.5 cm] from right-hand edge), join yarn with sl st in next sc bet tr-shells, ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), skip next ch-2 sp, *sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 5, skip next ch-21 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp**, ch 5, sk next 2 ch-2 sps; rep from * 5 times, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dc in next sc, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—12 ch-5 lps (includes beg ch-5).
Rows 2–5: Starting with Row 3, work even in patt for 4 rows, ending with
Row 3 of patt.
3rd Section Sizes L and 3X only
Row 1 (Row 3 of patt): With RS facing, skip first 11 ch-5 sps (18" [45.5 cm] from right-hand edge), join yarn with sl st in center of next ch-5 sp, ch 3, half shell in same ch-5 sp, *(sc, ch 5, sc) in next ch-5 sp, shell in next ch-5 sp, rep from * 4 times, (sc, ch 5, sc) in next ch-5 sp, half shell in next ch-5 sp, dc in same ch-5 sp, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—5 shells; 2 half shell; 6 ch-5 sps.
Rows 2–4: Starting with Row 4, work even in patt for 3 rows, ending with Row 3 of pattern.

Page 19 - This is NOT an error, but I will make it clearer for you.
Under Tapered Sleeves, All sizes - Row 2 (dec) where it says [tr, ch 1], "ch 1" is not an error. A reader contacted me saying that's supposed to say ch 2, because the tr shs previously in the patt say to ch 2. "[tr, ch 1]" is right. My original pattern says to ch 1 instead of ch 2 on that dec row. Just like in Row 1 (Dec) I'm having you work 9 dc for the sh instead of 11 dc, I am making these shs less wide so the sleeve will taper as you're working the sleeve to the cuff.

Page 19 - Tapered Sleeves - All Sizes (We are rearranging Rows 1-25 so it will come out right. There will be no Row 26.  It should read:

Row 1 (dec): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 1, [tr, ch 1] 4 times in next ch-5 sp, skip next 4 dc, sc in next dc; rep from * across, ending with last sc in top of tch, turn—6 tr-shells.
Row 2 (dec): Ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), skip first ch-2 sp, *sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, skip next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp**, ch 4, sk next 2 ch-2 sps; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 2, dc in last sc, turn—11 ch-4 lps.
Row 3 (dec): Ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, *(sc, ch 5, sc) in next ch-5 sp**, 9 dc in next ch-5 sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn—5 shells; 2 half shell; 6 ch-5 sps.

Rows 4–8: (instead of Rows 4-9) Rep Rows 1–3 of tapered sleeves once; rep Rows 1–2 of tapered sleeves once.
Ro9 (dec): Ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, *(sc, ch 5, sc) in next ch-5 sp**, 7 dc in next ch-5 sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in 3rd ch of tch, turn—5 shells; 2 half shell; 6 ch-5 sps.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 1, [tr, ch 1] 4 times in next ch-5 sp, skip next 3 dc, sc in next dc; rep from * across, ending with last sc in top of tch, turn—6 tr-shells.
Row 11: Rep Row 5 of tapered sleeves.
Rows 12–23: Rep rows 10–12 of tapered sleeves (4 times).
Row 24 (inc): Rep Row 3 of tapered sleeves (9-dc shells).
Row 25: (formerly this was Row 26 in the book) Ch 1, sc in first dc, * ([tr, picot] 3 times, tr) in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, skip next 4 dc**, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in center dc of next shell; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sc in top of tch. Fasten off.
Row 26: This row has been deleted but turned into Row 25.

Page 20 - Tapered Sleeves, all sizes - Row 26 in the book - see above (which is now Row 25), the * is in the wrong place, so please notice that change (placement of the *). This is how it should read:
Row 26 (now Row 25): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *([tr, picot] 3 times, tr) in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, skip next 4 dc**, (sl st, ch 3, sl st) in center dc of next shell; rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sc in top of tch. Fasten off.   

NOT an Error but an Explanation on why there is NO back seam
Page 20 - I just want to make sure you understand there is "no"seaming on the back of the jacket. You begin making the jacket with the beg ch at the Center Right Front and Right Back. If you look at the schematic in the book on pg 23 you will see that you work from the center out toward the sleeve cuff. I could have said to make the other side the same and had you seam it up the center back. But wanting to avoid the reader having to seam it, I decided to write the instructions in a way there are no seams on the center backs. For the 2nd piece (Left Front and Left Back), you connect yarn to the neck area, work a new ch for the left front, turn and then begin working the 1st row of the left front. When you get back to the neck you will be connecting that 1st row you just worked onto the ch, to the last row (center back) that you already finished and will be working your first row of the 2nd section (left back and front) "onto" the last row you worked of the first section (right front and back). This is not complicated at all once you begin working step by step.

Side and Underarm Seams
Page 20 - an explanation on how to sew the sleeve and side seams was left out of the pattern. Most people would automatically know to sew those seams, so it's not a major error, but it should read this way. (Place text right before Left Front and Left Back)

 With RS tog, match up Right Front to Right Back at sides and long edges of            sleeve at front and back, securing with safety pins. Top of sleeve and shoulder          will be folded with no seam to sew. Begin at lower edge of jacket sew side seam, continuing at underarm and along arm sleeves with yarn and yarn needle, leaving an opening at sleeve cuff. Rep on Left Front and Left Back

 Corrections on the Haute Couture Peplum Top 

Page 61, under SLEEVES (make 2). 
With larger hook ch 45 (47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57) is wrong! It should say
All Sizes - With larger hook ch 45. 
The reason this is wrong is because the beg ch of the sleeve is vertical, so the ch is the length of the sleeve. Length of the sleeve is the same for all sizes. 

Also under Sleeves, where it says "Rows 4- 27 (29, 31, 35, 37, 41, 43)" - this is right!
You are adding more rows to the larger sizes to fit around the arm. Remember the rows are vertical!

              Corrections on the Tunique Unique Pullover

Page 36 - the ** are missing in Row 1 under Pattern Stitch to the left in the gray area of the STITCH GUIDE, and the ** are also missing on Row 1 under Front /Back.

The **  on Row 1 of Front/Back should say - "ch 11 ** dc sh" I am adding "dc" before "shell" because there are also sc shes and hdc shs, if you look to the right in the STITCH GUIDE.
Likewise, the ** in Row 1 of the Pattern Stitch should be in the same place after "skip next 11ch". It should also say (under Pattern Stitch Row 1) 
Row 1: 2 dc in 4th  h from hook, * ch 8, skip next 11 ch, **, dc she in next ch"

Page 36 snd 37 - Begin Sleeves
Row 1- if you look at the schematic in the book (next page) you'll see that you'll have a foundation ch on the left and a foundation ch on the right. These foundation chs are what the sleeve part will be worked into, but if you are reading ahead, youll see that the center part of the front and back will actually have shs to be worked into.

Page 36 and 37 - Begin Sleeves (corrected Row 1)
Row 1 is completely off and the tech editor and I don't know how this got changed right before the book went to print because our original instructions we have are right. We decided to put the whole row that's correct here instead of trying to correct certain lines. Please ignore or cross out that row 1in the book and replace it with this correct Row 1. Thanks for being patient!

Begin Sleeves - please replace this with what's in the book
Correction
Row 1: Loosely ch 61 (for first sleeve), turn, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 8, skip next 11 ch, sc-shell in next ch, [ch 8, skip next 11 ch, hdc-shell in next ch] twice, [ch 8, skip next 11 ch, dc-shell in next ch] twice, ending in top of last dc of last row, work in patt Row 4 across to top of tch, drop lp from hook. With a separate strand of yarn, join yarn in in base of last st made, ch 60 (for 2nd sleeve). Fasten off. Pick up dropped lp, working across ch-60, ch 8, skip next 11 ch, dc-shell in next ch, [ch 8, skip next 11 ch, hdc-shell in next ch] twice, ch 8, skip next 11 ch, sc-shell in next ch, ch 8, skip next 11 ch, 3 sc in last ch, turn—2 sc-shells; 4 hdcshells; 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) dc-shells; 15 (16, 17, 18, 19) ch-8 lps. PM in first and last dc-shell. Move markers up as work progresses.

Notes from the tech editor, making this more clear.
You have added sts in Row 1 that widen the sweater to establish Sleeve sections. From then on you work across the first Sleeve, the Body, and the second Sleeve. At the end of Row 1, is the following text: "PM (meaning place marker) in first and last dc-shell. Move marker up as work progresses." I did that so that you can work in Pattern rows over the center section where there are dc-shells. The ends of the rows (which taper off by working hdc-shells and sc-shells) are written out at the beginning and end of the rows.

About starting the Second Sleeve, that is done in Row 1. After working across the body, you ch 60 for 2nd sleeve. 
                     Corrections for CafĂ© au Lait T - Shirt 

Page 85
The repeat rows on the stitch diagram should be Rows 2 - 7, not 3 - 8.

Page 86 - Rows 8 - 40
This is not an error but it is an explanation on the ch 10 and ch 11. 
From the tech editor - After adding the extra sts to start the Sleeves, you work Row 1 to establish the width. You do not fasten off after that, so you still have a lp on your hook at the end of Row 1 of the Sleeves. Then you continue to work across Row 1 of the Sleeves to begin the Yoke.

Designer / Author Explanation (on the chain 10 and chain 11)
Page 86, on Rows 8- 40, after ending with a row 4, you'll notice it says "do not fasten off". Step 1: Right after those words it says for you to "drop the lp from your hook". So at that moment you place a marker in that loop (that's at your left) so it won't come undone. Do not end off yarn becsuse you will pick it back up after you do the other steps of this row.
Step 2:  turn the row so your marker will be at your right.
Step 3: with a separate piece of yarn, join yarn to the end of the row at your far left. Chain 10, end off yarn.
Step 4: now turn the row back around again so the dropped loop with marker is at your left.
Step 5: remove marker and place dropped loop back on your hook and ch 11. Turn row again so  your ch 11 is at your right. This is the beginning of Row 1 of Shape Sleeves.
Step 6: after you have chained 11, work a hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Cont working Row 1. You'll be ending this row, working the sts in the ch 10 that's loose and fastened off.
The ch 10 and ch 11 are at the base of the first row of where the sleeves begin. The reason one side says 11 chains (and not 10) is because you will be turning the cn at the end of ch 11 and working across.

Page 86
At the end of Row 1 on Shape Sleeves
”…hdc in each of next 2 ch] 1 (1,1,1,1,2) twice, turn -- 9 (10,11,12,13,16) picots.”
Correction - the word "twice" is supposed to be "times" instead of "twice".

Page 86 -Yoke 
Starting with Row 6 of patt, work even in patt for 8 (5, 8, 5, 8, 5) rows—9 (9, 11, 11, 13, 13) shs; 0 (2, 0, 2, 0, 2) half shs.
The book says 9 (6, 9, 6, 9, 6) in the place that's highlighted. (which is wrong)
Yoke” -- from a reader "I don’t understand where these 9 rows go -- where they are attached to the rest of the front, or how they relate to the sleeves or anything."
Correction - At the end of YOKE it should say "Do not fasten off".The Yoke says to work in patt for a number of rows. Each row of the patt ends with a "turn", so make note of that. But you do not fasten off, you just cont to work the "First Front/Shape Neck.

                     Parisian Gardens Circular Shawl  
                           Comments on Keeping the Shawl Flat

There are no errors in this pattern except maybe 1 little thing. A reader noticed that on Rnd 12, the chart is missing the initial chain on one of the clusters.
Tip: A couple of people have written me saying after they worked Rnd 12 the shawl started to "cup" in like a bowl shape and they wondered what they were doing wrong or if there was an error. There are no errors and many people have been able to make this with no problems.  One of the gals who had written me about her concern on the bowl-like shape, contacted me again after I told here there were no errors in the pattern. I'm posting what she wrote, hoping this will help you if you encountered the same problem.

From the Reader
"When I was looking at pictures other people on Ravelry have posted of their shawl, I noticed that the “flower rings” from round 11 on theirs open up more and look a little more like big triangles than circles. By gently tugging on the sides and sort of stretching it out like a pizza crust, the tightness that was causing the cupping disappeared."  I hope this helps! 

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