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Saturday, January 29, 2011

FREE Cochet Pattern

Newsboy Cap Pattern in Fifth Avenue Magazine
Design by Mary Jane Hall 

 The pattern for this Newsboy Cap was published in the Sept 05' issue of  Fifth Ave Magazine. It was a great honor for me to have a design in a magazine that is a Fashion magazine and not even a crochet magazine. This is a very easy pattern, especially for those who do not like crocheting in the round. The method I use makes it so simple to count the stitches. You'll be surprised at how easy this is. It's one of my most popular designs on Ravelry and you can go there to see the many projects other crocheters have made form this pattern. I hope the step by step photos help!

I used plastic canvas to stiffen the brim, but you could easily make it without the stiffiner. If you prefer a Beret, just eliminate the brim altogether. See pattern below.

Puff Stitch Newsboy Cap
Design by Mary Jane Hall

 One size fits most
Skill level - Intermediate

6 oz. worsted wt. yarn - Bernat Super Value in Damison (dark purple)
Crochet hooks size H/8 (5 mm) and F/5 (3.75)
Plastic canvas
Yarn Needle
(If your gauge does not match this, change to a smaller or larger hook. Change to a larger hook if you have more than 4 dc to 1 1/8”, or change to a smaller hook if you have less than 4 dc to 1 1/8”)
With H hook, 4 dc= approx.= 1 1/8" With F hook, 5 sc=1 1/8"
With H hook, 2 dc rows= 1 1/8" With F hook, 6 sc rows= 1 1/8"
With H hook, 1 Puff st= 1/2"
Puff st: With loop on hook, do not yarn over (Insert hook in st, pull yarn up to 1/2", yo, insert hook in same st, pull yarn up to 1/2" for the 2nd time, yo, insert in same st and pull up yarn for the 3rd time, yo and insert in same st again, pull up yarn for 4th time, yo and pull hook and yarn through all 8 loops on hook) In pattern: When you work the 1st dc immediately after puff st, you need to work the dc tightly, so puff st will stand up, but do not work the other dc's this tight.
INSTRUCTIONS: Worked in rounds
With H hook, ch 3, (counts as 1st dc)
Rnd 1: Working all sts into 1st ch, (puff st, dc) 5 times, puff st; join with a sl st to 1st dc. 6 Puff sts (see photo 1 below)

Photo # 1

This is what round 1 will look like with 6 Puff stitches

Rnd 2: Ch 3, (counts as 1st dc here and throughout) puff st in same place as joining, * (dc and puff) in ch 1 of next puff, (dc and puff) in next dc, rep from * around to last puff, (dc & puff) in ch 1 of last puff, join. (12 puff sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same sp as joining, * puff in ch 1 of next puff, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * to last puff, puff in ch 1 of last puff, join. (12 puff with 2 dc between each puff st)
Rnd 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in next dc, puff in ch 1 of next puff, * dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, puff in ch 1 of next puff, rep from * around, join. (12 puff with 3 dc between)
Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in same sp as joining, dc in each of next 2 dc, * puff in ch 1 of puff, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 2 dc, rep from * around, join. (12 puff w/ 4 dc between)
Rnd 6: Repeat rnd 5, working 5 dc between each puff st. (2 dc in 1st dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 dc, etc.)
Rnd 7: Rep rnd 5, working 6 dc between each puff
Rnd 8: Rep rnd 5, with 7 dc between each puff
Rnd 9: Rep rnd 5, with 8 dc between. Cap will still be a flat circle at this point (see photo 2 below)

Photo # 2

  Rows 1-9 will look like this when lying flat (before you start to decrease)

 Rnd 10: Decrease row: Work 7 dc between each puff in this manner. Ch 3, (counts as 1st dc) 1 dc in each of next 5 dc, work 2 dc tog. in last 2 dc (this is a dec, making it 1 st) To work 2 dc together (in next to last dc, (between puff sts) work dc, leaving last loop of dc on hook, work dc in next st, and leaving last loop again, you should have 3 loops on hook. Yo and pull yarn through hook- 1 dec made) 7 dc between
Rnd 11: Rep rnd 10, with 6 dc between
Rnd 12: Rep rnd 10, with 5 dc between
Rnd 13: Rep rnd 12, with 5 dc between each puff st. (work even with no decreases) See photo 3 below

Photo # 3

 Cap starting to take shape after decrease rounds. It should look like this before you add the bands.

Another view of Photo # 3

Rnd 14: Change to F hook. Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, sc in each sc around. Join to 1st sc. (72 sc)
Rnds 15 - 18: Repeat rnd 14. End off yarn.

BRIM: Continue with F hook (crochet tightly) With top of hat upside down in your lap, and right side (front) facing you, join yarn with sl st in a st directly above a puff st. (see photo 4 below)

Photo # 4

Attaching Brim To Band – Decide where you want center of cap to be, place marker, then count over 7 stitches to the right to begin row. The first row of brim will have 14 stitches.

 These rows will not be turned. End off each row.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same sp as joining, sc in next 13 sts. End off yarn. (14 sc)
Row 2: With right side facing, join yarn in 1st st, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st (inc), 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st (inc), 1 sc in each of last 3 sts. End off. (16 sc)
Row 3: With right side facing you, join yarn in band 2 sts from beg of brim, 1 sc in each of these 2 sts, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts of brim, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of last 4 sts of brim, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts in band. End off (22 sc)
Rows 4-9: Continue working 2 more sts of band (on each side) and 2 more sts (increases) above inc of previous row. (6 inc on each row: row 4=28 sts, row 5=34 sts, row 6=40 sts, row 7= 46 sts, row 8= 52 sts, row 9= 58 sts) Mark inc to make it easier. End off yarn.
FACING for brim: (optional) Work to correspond to brim in following manner: (rows will be turned)
Row 1: With hat upside down in your lap, and back side of brim facing up, join yarn with sl st to back loop of 1st st (sc) of brim at far right. (see photo 5 below)

Photo # 5

Facing for Brim – Place hook and yarn in back loop of stitch that is to the far right on back side of brim.

Sc in same sp, sc in each remaining back loop only of each sc across brim. (58 sc) Ch 1, turn (do not end off yarn)
Row 2: Place markers to correspond to inc on brim (this is where your deceases will be) Sk 1st 2 sc, working in both loops from here on out, sc in each sc across row, decreasing 1 st above increases on brim, and leaving last 2 sc unworked. Ch 1, turn. 6 dec (52 sc)
Rows 3-9: Repeat row 2, decreasing 6 sts on each row, making facing same size as brim.
Weave in all loose ends of yarn before sewing facing down.
BUTTON (for top)
With F hook, ch 3, join with sl st to form ring. Join next 3 rows with sl st
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc) 7 hdc into ring, join (8 hdc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, working in back loop only, work 1 hdc into same sp as joining, 2 hdc into each hdc around, join.(16 hdc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, continuing to work in back loop only, 1 hdc in each hdc around, join (16 hdc) End off yarn, leaving a 12" strand. With yarn needle, thread yarn through last rnd of sts. Pull to tighten. Sew button to top of hat with yarn and yarn needle. (Photo 6 below)

Photo # 6

Sew button to top center of cap

Cut piece of plastic canvas same size as brim, and place in between brim and facing. With yarn needle and yarn, sew facing to underside of brim, holding plastic canvas in place.
For larger hat: (make changes as follows)
Rnd 10: Inc to 9 dc between
Rnd 11: Dec to 8 dc between
Rnd 12: Dec to 7 dc between
Rnd 13: Dec to 6 dc between Go to rnd 14
Band instructions for larger hat:
Rnd 14: continuing with H hook, ch 1, sc in same sp as joining, sc in each sc around, skipping the ch 1 sp at top of each puff st. (12 dec on row) Sl st to 1st sc. (72 sc)
Rnds 15 -17: Change to F hook from here on out. Ch 1, sc in each sc around.
Note: If hat is too loose on head, on rnd 17, you may want to dec 4-6 sts spaced evenly around row, placing markers before you start. End off yarn.
The hat looks good with a brooch. Another option would be to put a ribbon bow there, since bows are so popular!

 NOTE: Please do not copy or sell this pattern. If you would like to sell your own projects you make from this pattern, you are welcome to do that, as long as you give me the credit as the designer. Thank you for cooperating and enjoy the pattern! Mary Jane 
st (s) - stitches
yo-yarn over
inc - increase
sp - space
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch
dec - decrease
rnd - round
sc - single crochet
rep - repeat
sk - skip
beg – beginning


  1. Very pretty. And it is an honor for crochet designs to be in a fashion magazine!

  2. Yes, it is :) I was supposed to have a purse in that magazine too, but I ended up having it in another magazine.

  3. I love the design, thank you for publishing this great hat pattern.
    Made one today while taking a break from my regular crafts. It was very easy to follow.

  4. how do I make the brim not so floppy? I hear you can put milk carton or something? I'm still a newer crocheter, so tips would be appreciated. great hat though (I made mine off a different pattern. but this one is also cute

    1. Linda, I used plastic canvas so my brim would be firm. It's the plastic stuff you can buy at any craft store. It's normally used for Needlepoint. It comes in squares or rectangles and you have to cut it the shape of the brim. Here's a photo at JoAnns:

  5. What an awesome hat pattern. Thanks so much for sharing. I'm workng on a hat in heather grey and I have a share site and would like to post a link to your site crediting you for helping me create this awesome hat. Thanks and I'm looking forward to seeing your other designs. :-)

  6. This comment has been removed by the author.

  7. hi mam can you upload video for puff stitch newsboy cap mam please....

    1. Sorry, I didn't make a video - just step by step photos. Thanks for your interest :-)

  8. On Ravely you said that there was information on how to make this Puff Stitch Newsboy Hat larger. Where is it? I know that I need the band to fit 22.5" not too tight.

  9. Hi Mary Jane! I LOVE this pattern. I did want to double check to be sure I'm reading it correctly at rounds 12 & 13 though. Because it says there are "5 dc between" for both rounds, I'm reading it as there is NOT a decrease from round 12 to 13, and that from Rnd 13 we are working even rounds. Is this correct? Thanks for your help. :)